Archive
Monemvasia to Oxford
Friday 29th October 2010
Friday morning and we were both awake before the alarms went off at 07:00. We got up and had a final “Greekified” breakfast before doing the washing up, the final bit of packing and tidying the cottage.
A dark and stormy sky on Friday morning.
I had wanted to be away from the cottage by 08:30 and in fact we were on the road by about 08:15. Although the sky was very threatening at Limonas, as we cleared the mountains and descended towards Sikea it brightened up and so we had much better views of the scenery than we had had on the way down.
Our last view of Limonas.
We made great time and were back in Athens by about 12:30. Dropped the car off early, and therefore got refunded a day’s rental, which was an added bonus and then headed into the terminal. After checking at the check in desk we were told that we could not check in until 16:00 so we went off for something to eat (I finally managed to get a decent cup of coffee) and sit down for a while.
At about ten to four we went back to the check in area where the desks looked like they were just about to open, so we sat down and made sure that all the straps on our rucksacks were done up and tucked away. As we were doing this a party of British school children arrived and went straight into the queue for the check in, so we had to wait in line. Luckily the line moved quickly and we were able to check in, but for some reason we had to take our rucksacks to the large bag drop off desk (funny, they hadn’t been a problem on the way out). No worries, we dropped them off and wandered through the shops before going through passport control and then, at around 5pm, through security to the gate. We managed to get on the plane reasonably quickly and the plane took off on time (after the Captain “negotiated” with Greek air traffic control). The French air traffic control were on strike, so we went round France, over journey and came into Heathrow from the East, flying low enough over London to identify the Thames, Canary Wharf, Big Ben, the London eye before coming into land.
Easily through passport control, using the new “chipped” passports and the Iris security system (more information here, and here. I don’t think I registered for this, so I presume it took a picture of my Iris when I came through. ), collected our bags and went out to wait for the coach to Oxford. We had been booked on the 22:20 coach but we were early and managed to get on the 21:50. Got off the bus at Headington shops and walked home, arriving at about 23:00
A day at the beach part 2 – Epidaurus Limera
Thursday 28th October 2010
The penultimate day of our Greek holiday, well the final day really, considering that Friday wil be spent driving back to Athens.
Morning broke with sunshine and lots of patchy cloud, both out to sea and over the mountains. Although it is pleasant enough at the cottage there is really no view and no sunshine either, which may be great on a sweltering hot summer’s day but today was it was uninspiring so, like typical Brits Abroad we drove to the beach and started the day sat in the car with our jumpers on as it was too cold and windy to sit on the beach in our swim wear.
After an hour or so the temperature had risen slightly, although it was still too breezy to sit on the beach so I suggested that we go and explore Epidaurus Limera. We had spotted the ruins from the road a few days ago and this morning we saw a sign proclaiming an archaeological site, although we had missed the sign the previous times we had been down the road. There was even a path leading from the road up to the ruins.
As we climbed up the path we came across an unusual example of the local wildlife. I called for D to hurry to look, then realised that there was no point in her rushing really.
As we climbed the hillside a settlement of some significant size was revealed in a number terraces built into the hillside. Going round to the left hand side more terraces were found at the back and an easy route to the summit was managed. Along with the terraces large number of dressed stones were apparent as were a number of areas of the bed rock that had obviously been worked. On reaching the summit plateau large number of roofing slates and other stonework were easily visible lying on the surface. The view from the top, both out to the rock of Monemvasia and inland towards the mountains was stunning.
The view from the top of Epidaurus Limera, looking towards Monemvasia.
The view from the summit of Epidaurus Limera, looking inland.
We went back to the car for lunch and continued to sit in the car, reading, while waiting for it to warm up enough for us to sit outside. Instead it just got cloudier, and definitely didn’t get any warmer. Eventually, when the sky was almost completely covered in cloud I plucked up the courage to go for a swim. The initial shock soon passed and the water felt quite warm in some places with only the breeze bringing a slight chill. After about 20 minutes in the water I had had enough and so returned to the car to dry off and get changed.
A short while after that we headed back to the cottage where I had another cold shower. It occurred to me again that we have a pump for the shower at home the switch is in the shower room – operated by a pull cord, not in the garage or an outside loo! After the shower we packed our things away ready to depart the next day, before heading out into the rain for dinner on Monemvasia. As we reached the end of the river bed leading from the cottage to the road, we noticed a ship out to sea. D joked that it was hers as it had Deniz written on the side.
October 28th is “No day” in Greece (when Metaxas denied permission for the Italians to cross Greek land during the war, thus pulling Greece into WWII on the side of the Allies),and a public holiday, so the roads were busier and there were more people in the old town. We went back to Marianthi for dinner, despite the odd waitress. Cheese stuffed peppers and deep fried cheese triangles to start with, followed by spaghetti and meatballs for me and Stamna for D. We again were presented with the honey soaked breadcrumb desert but they did not serve any Greek coffee! A Greek restaurant, that boasts that it only serves Greek food, did not have any Greek coffee! After dinner we headed back to the car – it was very dark walking down the road to the car and raining, as well as a bit blowy, but we managed to find the car, Ike, and its flush flashing non knobs.
Back at the cottage I had a cup of Greekified Nescafe to make up for not having any coffee with dinner and then the last bottle of Mythos, then it was time for bed – our last night at Limonas. Thankfully the rats were not too noisy and we managed a decent night’s sleep.
Gythio, the Mani and Kelefa Castle
Wednesday 27th October 2010
After the relaxing day in the sunshine yesterday, today was due to be another road trip. During our planning session last night we had decided against the Langda Pass, as it would have meant a round trip of over 300km and more than 7.5 hours of driving, and that did not include time for photo stops or exploration.
So we decided to head off to Gytheio and the area west, including if we could find it, Kelefa Castle.
The trip to Gytheio was uneventful, although there was more traffic around than normal. The guidebooks describe Gytheio as an attractive fishing town. While the sea front houses were attractive enough the rest of the town was a pig sty. I can only assume that the refuse collectors were on strike as there were piles of garbage everywhere and the place stank to high heaven. We did not, therefore, hang around very long. Just long enough to drive along the jetty / sea wall to a small island where the folklore museum is situated. Unusually, when compared to other attractions we had come across, this had a sign post proclaiming that it was open every day. Although it was a fairly attractive building we did not go inside, merely took a few photos before crossing back to the mainland and rejoining the main road, continuing to head west, following directions from Sat Nav for the small village of Itilo (Οιτνλο), about 11km north of Areopoli. Kelefa castle was well signposted from the road and we followed the narrow, but tarmac road, to the castle, parking in a small lay-by right next to the castle.
The 17th century castle is very much in ruins today with a lot of the outer walls damaged, demolished or robbed away. There are still a lot of stone walls inside the castle although only the church and part of central tower remain standing. It is almost impossible to get any idea about the layout inside the castle as it is very overgrown with olive trees and other low scrubby bushes, including the prickly Kermes oaks.
The interior of Kelefa castle showing the low stone walls and invading greenery, along with the demolished walls (background right) and the remains of the central tower).
After exploring the castle we returned to the car and D spotted two dung beetles, hard at work doing what dung beetles do best. As we sat on the edge of the boot of the car having lunch there were tremendous peels of thunder from the nearby mountains, where dark storm clouds were gathering. We retreated into the car to finish lunch and as we turned for home the heavens opened and it began to pour with rain.
Back at the cottage and it is still raining, although it appears to be easing off but the thunder continues to be very loud and the peels very long, lasting several seconds. I’m sure the ancients would have decided that the gods were very unhappy about something and perhaps another maiden should be sacrificed or young boy flogged. There has just been a bright flash of lightning, so I was obviously right. Now, where to find a maiden….
The storm clouds gather over the mountains to the south of Kelefa castle.
A Day at the Beach – Palea Monemvasia
Tuesday 26th October 2010
Got up around 9am to sunshine with a few wispy high cirrus clouds. However, it looks like there are some alto and stratus cumulus coming in from the south east.
Luckily the clouds stayed in the south east and provided a very interesting display throughout the day. It appeared to be a cumulo nimbus cloud (I wouldn’t say that it was stratus as it was so distinct and not spread across the sky). However, rather than risoing to the typical anvil shaped top that would normally be expected, it appeard to meet a definite temperature inversion or barrier, and so it spread out with parts detaching themselves and being blown inland, while the rest of the cloud tumbled in constant turmoil, shifting from a smooth topped – almost lenticularis appearance – to a ragged fluffy top. A PowerPoint presentation showing the transition of the cloud can be seen here.
All this was observed from the beach at Palea Monemvasia, where we spent most of the day.
We had driven down to Poli beach looking for Epidaurus Limera, but had found only Captain Hook’s beach bar, closed for the winter and the road ending in a pair of locked gates. Returning to the main road we took the next turn and although we followed the signs for Epidaurus Limera we could not find it (see the post for Thursday 28th), unless the ruins are the walls that are visible at the back of the beach or the look out tower visible on the promontory.
The beach is excellent. Lots of parking and a decent amount of sand, with only a small pebbly line to get into the sea. A note of caution though; the current is very strong and the bottom drops off very rapidly, so that six feet from the shore I was out of my depth (I’m 6′ 1″ tall).
After spending most of the day on the beach it was back to the cottage for another cold shower and tea on the patio. I had thought that a day of glorious sunshine would have been enough to heat the water, but obviously not – probably because the solar panels are shaded by the cottage and the olive trees.
Pyrgos Gerakiou and Badron Gorge
Monday 25th October 2010
After the usual breakfast of Greek yoghurt, some sort of baklava and “Greekified” Nescafe we headed into Monemvasia to visit Agia Sophia, since it had been closed when we visited the site last Tuesday. Today we strolled purposefully along the main street and, just after the square with the cannon, we turned up the steps to the old town.
Passing into the upper town we headed straight for the church which was, thankfully, open. Although an attractive building from the outside the inside is really very basic with a central dome and two small side wings. Interestingly there is a passage way behind the rood screen and past the altar.
On leaving the church we explored the Eastern side of the upper town. Lots of ruins with stunning views of the sea, with an island on horizon. We returned to the car to discuss the next move for the day. If it looked like being a glorious sunny day then we would have headed back to the beach. However, as it was fairly cloudy and showing no signs of clearing we headed out on another road tour. We followed the main road out of Monemvasia and about 2km beyond Vlachiotis we turned right towards Mirtia and on to Geraki, where we followed a signpost to Gerakiou and then turned left to follow the road up to the castle. Up a steep and twisting road (quell surprise) we came at last to a high chain link gate across the road with a parking area on the left. A sign on the gate informed us the the person on duty was there on Sundays between 8.30am and 3pm. Fortunately for us however the gate was open and we walked up the rest of the track to the ruins of Pyrgos Gerakiou. Along the lines of Monemvasia and Mistras this looked like a settlement on the mountainside with an upper fortified section on the summit. From the battlements we spied some more ruins on the next summit – about 1km away. After one false start, where we tried to walk across the ridge through the prickly Kermese oaks (Quercus coccifera), we found the correct path at the bottom of the main settlement (and at the top of the track up from the gate) and made easy process to the far peak, examining lichens and plants along the way. At the second set of ruins are the remains of another church with what looks like celtic knotwork designs and painted images.
After about ten minutes exploring this second site we retraced our steps back to the main site and down the track to the car. We had just sat down on the edge of the car boo t to have some lunch when a local woman pulled up to the gates, got out of her car, locked the gates, got back in her car and drove off again. If we had been five minutes later we would have been locked inside.
We returned to Yeraki and headed north east towards Leonidio, via the small town of Kosmas, where the road goes round the church and across the village square to follow a very narrow road that exits to the right of the square. There is another road that leaves the square that has a signpost to about hald a dozen places that were not on any of our maps, nor was the road! About 14km from Kosmas, as the road begins the descent into the extremely scenic Badron gorge, we passed the turning to the monastery at Moni Panegios Elonis, where it looked as if the monks were flying the Cornish flag.
At the end of the gorge we finally reached Leonidio and wre faced with three choices for getting back to Monemvasia:
- We could go North to Astros, then across to Tripoli and back down the main Sparta road (a very long way).
- We could go back up the Badron Gorge and return the way we had come
- We could try the minor road to Peleta and Agios Dimitrios
On reflection, the most sensible choice would have been number 2. But of course, I chose number 3.
Shortly after leaving Leonidio (again by a steep, twisting road) we got lost in a small village and ended up following some local home, before we realised we were going the wrong way. Fortunately, thanks to D reading the Greek signposts correctly we found the correct road to Peleta. Shortly after leaving Peleta we came to a junction and followed the signpost towards Agios Dimitrios and all was looking good as we followed a modern well made tarmac road until the tarmac ran out and it became a dirt track. With dark heavy clouds and gentle drizzle threatening to become a downpour there was no way I was going to risk the little Fabia coming unstuck on a steep dirt track in the middle of nowhere.
So, we retraced our steps to the last junction and followed the signs towards Sparta, which eventually led us, after descending into a beautiful valley, to the village of Agios Dimitrious and then the main road back to Monemvasia.
We made it back to the old town by about 6.15pm and finished where we had started the day by having dinner at Matoula. I had a Greek salad, full of tomatoes, cucumber, olives, onions and feta cheese (fantastic) followed by Dolmades, which were not quite so good. Since when did Dolmades come with a white sauce and surely vine leaves should be very dark green and thick, not thin and light green?
We purchased some wine (sold in reused water bottles) from the butchers by the causeway and returned to the cottage. D liked the wine, which is almost a Rose with a dry white taste, but I stuck to the Greek beer, Mythos.
It was a long day today with over 200km of driving, made even longer by a late night drinking before we crawled into bed about 1am.
Metamorfosi, Richea and Gerakas
Sunday 24th October 2010
8.30am (on a Sunday!) woke, with a headache already, to the chugging of some sort of motor / pump as guys continue to work nearby. Fairly cloudy as well, although the sun is breaking through as I write this. So, I suggested a drive up to Richea and the surrounding area. Even though its more driving on top of yesterday it is a chance to escape the throbbing nouise of that blasted generator. Then D announces she will wash her hair before we go out so I have to sit and listen to the chugging of the generator. Actually it isn’t so bad, the sounds of the waves are just as loud and it looks like the sun might be slowly winning its fight against the clouds.
About 20km outside of Monemvasia, just beyond Sikea, we took a side road to Metamorfosi. The sign was hidden behind a tree and I nearly didn’t see it at all. As it was I had fone past before I had translated the greek and had to turn around. It shouldn’t have mattered as the map shows three side roads leading to the village; one just outside of Sikea, one at Molai and one halfway in between. The road we took led us, eventually to a the village square, where there is a very impressive looking church. The square was almost full of cars and, being a Sunday I didn’t think the locals would appreciate a couple otourists looking around the church during a service, so we didn’t stop. Instead, we followed Sat Nav and, unusually for Greece, some signpost, on to the road towards Richea.
The road climbed out of the valley, on to which the sun was shining through the occasional break in the clouds, and up the side of the mountain in the, now to be expected, series of sharp inclines hairpin bends. As we drew closer to the wind turbines on the ridge and rose above the quarry works the cloud descended and we were driving though mist as we crossed the highest point.
Descending the other side we were heading toward Richea when we saw a sign for an ancient monument (the Palace of Charakis or something similar). After following the side road for several kilometres we still had not seen any further signs so on reaching a village (possibly Achladokambos) we turned around. (Having just looked at Google maps while writing this up I think we must have just missed the turning since there is a place named Zarakas just off the road near the village.)
Heading back to the original road we soon passed through Richea. This is a pleasant looking village with a couple of taveransa where men were drinking coffee or having an early lunch. The road continued on down, through Agios Ionnis and Lerax / Gerakas. About 2km after Gerakas is a left turn to Gerakis Port (or Limani Geraka – Λιμάνι
Γέρακα)
This little settlement hugs the shoreline of one side of a natural inlet, naturally sheltered from the sea. There are a number of tavernas and a couple of restaurants, which seemed popular with local and winter residents. About 500m from the start of the village there is a car park on the right hand side, next to the water. Opposite this a track leads up the hill and a signpost indicates an ancient monument – the Acropolis of Zarax.
We parked the car and walked up the track. There are a number of private houses on the right hand side and on reaching the top another couple of private residences ahead and to the left. Between two of these properties, slightly to the left, it appeared as is some drainage / irrigation work was underway as there was a trench dug and a couple of pipes laid out. Well worn, and almost unnoticeable, was a sign to the Kastro or Castle (ΚΑΣΤΡΟ), pointing up the trench – which was obviously a path or track at some point.
Picking our way up the side of the trench we came to a well work footpath between two stone walls, which we followed to the corner of another dry stone wall that had an arrow painted on it. Following the arrow we continued up the obvious path – aided by splashes of paint that had been dabbed on stones and walls to mark the way.
The path is obvious, with the occasional way marker in the form of paint spots: 
Soon the stone works of the acropolis were obvious. Atop the highest point and extending out to the cover the approach to the harbour it must have been a significant fortification in its time.
After exploring the churches, stone walls and underground chambers we made our way back down the hill to the car.
Leaving Gerakis Port we rejoined the main road toward Monemvasia, passing through the tiny hamlet of Ariana and past the circular tower on the promontory before descending to the sandy beach at Palea Monemvasia. One of the advantages of coming to Greece in October is that even on a sunny Sunday afternoon this sandy beach was deserted apart from us and a lone fisherman.
We paddled in the sea for a while, our feet and legs soon getting used to the cool water and then perched on separate rocks and contemplated the waves. As D wandered off to look for rock pools and find a fish, a shrimp and several wave polished stones I sat and watched the waves and let my mind wander around the three main topics – work, walking and sex.
Work I’m not going to go in to details here for various reasons. Sex I’m not going to go into either. Walking, well where to start – that really is the question. Looking at these mountains over the past few days has made me want to explore them in more detail on foot, especially given that event the ones around here rise to more than 1100m which is higher than Ben Nevis, while the summits of the Taygetos reach 2407m. But there are so many hills and mountains to explore in the UK. How best to explore them let alone the ones in Greece? How about a target list that can give me something to aim for, as well as help get me fit:
- All the Wainwrights (214)
- The Welsh 3000 – I think I’ve done a fair few of them already
- The highest point in each county
- The highest mountain in each European country
That should keep me going for a while. Now all I need is someone to pay me / sponsor me to do all of that and I’ll be laughing, as well as raising money and awareness for Diabetes UK.
Anyhow, daydreaming completed it was time to head back to the cottage, with the usual stop at the mini market for supplies.
We decided to eat in tonight on garlic sausage, tsatziki, cheese, crackers, olives and biscuits. While sitting down before tea we were joined by a male tabby cat and shortly afterwards by a white / tabby female. We enticed them to stay using a fair amount of the garlic sausage and they hung around while we had tea. Once we moved inside the cottage I hoped that the cats would do something about the rats in the roof, although after all that garlic sausage they probably didn’t want anything else to eat.
Mistras
Saturday 23rd October 2010
Sunrise today (well ~8am) and the waves were still pounding the beach. Stratus cumulus perlucidus hung across the seaward sky, so we decided to follow the example of previous residents at Limonas (according to the visitor’s book) and headed out to the ancient fortified town of Mistras. The city, a UNESCO world heritage site, lies about 7km to the west of Sparta.
The ruins are vast, so vast that there are two entrances – for the lower town and for the upper town and castle. Arriving at the lower entrance I practiced by Greek “Yasas –dhio” (Hello – 2 ) and paid the €10 for the two of us. Then made use of the WC – downstairs to the left of the main entrance – before re-entering the lower town and exploring the ruins. We made it up to the palace but returned to the car for lunch.
After lunch we drove to the upper entrance and explored the Castro (621m above sea level) and the church of St Nicholas.
The face of St Nicholas?
The only full time residents of Mistras now are the nuns at the Monastery of Pantanassa and their numerous cats.
The ruins are amazing, with great wall paintings in the churches and absolutely stunning views of Sparta in the valley below and the mountains behind.
We headed back to the cottage for a very quick and very cold shower before heading out for dinner. The visitor’s book had recommended Pimpernelli’s, but it was shut. So we headed into Monemvasia again, this time to Marianthi. The woman owner was again very keen to get us in, and explained most of the menu in very broken English. A sole American on the next table tried to engage us in conversation several times but we were able to ignore him most of the time.
Maybe I was in a strange mood that night – I found the owner of the restaurant quite annoying as she tried to explain the menu to us while being overly familiar and patting be on the shoulder, but I also found the American to be quite odd. He was obviously by himself but did mention that he had daughters and that he spent most of the year living in Switzerland and three months living in Monemvasia. We were to see him several more times during our stay but again managed not to stop to talk to him. He’s probably a really nice bloke.
Despite the misgivings I had about the restaurant, dinner was actually very good. I had Village Feta cheese to start; a slice of Feta drizzled in olive oil and herbs, which we both finished before D’s stuffed peppers arrived. They were very yummy as well. D had veal in some sort of sauce with chips for her main, while I had Stamna – a veal stew cooked in a pot. The meat was very tasty and just fell apart. Although we didn’t order dessert we were presented with a light honey soaked slice of breadcrumbs with cinnamon.
Back to the cottage (and the rats in the roof) for another beer and to write up the journal. Its only 8.20pm and I feel shattered. Its Saturday night, so that means we are already half way through our holiday. Sitting in the cottage I can still hear the waves pounding the shore line.
A Day Around Limonas
Friday 22nd October 2010
We woke to grey skies, the sound of strong winds and then a sudden, but fairly short, downpour of rain. We got up around 9am and decided to have a day around the cottage. After breakfast of Greek yoghurt, baklava and coffee we sat a read for a while (even though we had bought books with us, Limonas has a fairly wide selection of books, both fiction and non fiction – including a number of travel guides for Greece – of various ages). After an hour or so we too a stroll down to the beach.
Everything was dramatic, clouds rolling in, big waves, strong winds blowing off the sea and the mountains behind us capped with clouds. After a while turned inland and followed the riverbed past the cottage to where the valley opened out. Cows and sheep were visible beyond the olive trees. We meandered back to the cottage, with examining the huge variety of rocks along the way (during the Triassic, Jurassic and Cretaceous periods Greece was a shallow oxygen rich sea, which explains all the sedimentary rocks. There then following a period of intense volcanic activity (e.g at Santorini in 1650BC), which explains the various metamorphic rocks.
I had thought that it would brighten up later, but instead it got cloudier and the wind increased as well. We had lunch – bread, goat’s cheese and olives. I also had a peach that we had bought from a super market in Monemvasia the day before (get me eating fresh fruit!). Sitting outside, because we are English and on holiday, in my soft shell jacket, done up to the neck, D with her Mountain Equipment fleece top on, reading the Lonely Planet guide to Greece and Patrick Leigh Fermor’s guide to the Mani (don’t know how useful it would be today – it was written in 1958). Talking about books, I have to admit that I did not find the Lonely Planet guide that useful, when it came to finding out about some of the small villages and ruins in the south east Peloponese. Of more use may have been something like this.
Anyway, back to Limonas. Standing on the porch I can just catch a glimpse of the sea – white horses cresting the waves, through the waving fronds of the bamboo at the bottom of the garden. With the wind blowing in my face I can smell the distinct scent of Eucalyptus.
Mid afternoon we took another stroll down to the beach – and how things had changed! The wind was stronger, the waves bigger, and where this morning the there had been a low shingle wall across the mouth the river bed that had held back against the waves, now there was nothing but an ever deepening channel as wave after wave raced in and up to the road. Im glad the car was parked on slightly higher ground and on the other side of the road.
Exploring the main room I found a folding deckchair so got that out on the patio, thinking ti will be better for my back. Sitting there wrapped up in my jacket I look like the typical Brit abroad.
About 5pm we got our things together and headed out to Monemvasia. Stopped at the Mini Market for more supplies, stopped briefly at Xifias beach so D could drop the rubbish into the roadside bin and then into Gefyra to post the postcards – not bad going, it only took us two days to get round to posting them after we had written them.
Monemvasia looked stunning in the sunlight so we took several photos of the usual suspects: the rock, the mountains, the sea and the clouds. Drove across the causeway and up to the lower town efore turning round and finding a parking space next to the rock face. Walking down the main street of the old town all the bars and the three restaurants were open. We looked at the menus for each of the restaurants – the first one being the place we had lunch on Wednesday. Again we were greeted by the owner who tried to entice us in with offer of good food and views. However, he was quite happy when I said we were still looking. No one bothered at the second restaurant but at the third one the woman owner thrust a menu into our hands and explained that she only solf Greek food, asking ud we knew what Dolmades were. Again we explained we were still looking and wandered back to Elkomenos Square to find that the Archaeological Museum and the church (Christ Elkomenos) were both open, so we had look around them.
The museum is only small and contains mainly pottery shar4ds and pieces of marble. The shards include a vase with holes in the bottom (?) and a frying pan with a short stubby handle like the ones used in re-enactment, but which is supposed to have held a wooden handle. The marble showed some intricate carvings from door and window mantels.
After a quick look round the church it was into the first restaurant for dinner (To Kanoni). Upstairs for a view, the owner rearranging a table for us. Dolmades and Kalamari for me, baked Feta cheese and Moussaka for D, followed by Cappuccino and Nescafe medium respectively. Three cats begged at the table, but my will was strong and we did not feed them. After paying the bill (€40.10) we walked down the road back to the car. It was very dark walking down that narrow road with a vertical drop down to the sea on one side but we made it to the car and drove back to the cottage. I wish the Greeks would discover cat’s eys, or indeed any type of raod furniture, the roads are a nightmare in the dark. Spent the evening drinking Amstel and listening to the sea, hoping for brighter weather tomorrow.
//Some additional thoughts about the cottage at Limonas.
There is still a rat problem. They may not be running around the inside of the cottage but they are still running around in the roof. I don’t know how the roof is constructed and what is above the layer of bamboo that makes up the ceiling in the cottage, but I can easily imagine murine faecal matter falling through the ceiling and landing around the cottage.
It would have been very useful to have been shown around the place properly. I realise that Thea was off ill in Denmark and that it is no longer Ilse’s job to look after the cottage but I think she could have done a better job of it. It would have been nice for the fridge to have been started prior to our arrival and for the cottage to be aired.
I don’t mind basic facilities, but it would be good if what facilities there should be actually work they way they are supposed to – hot water for example. Goodness knows how 7 people would manage in that cottage.
It would have been really useful to know that there was a three pin socket and USB socket that we could use to charge batteries before we arrived.
The pump needs to be running to get a decent flow from the cold tap. But we were told not to run the pump with the tap closed, so to use any water you have to:
- Turn on the cold tap
- Go outside, round the back and turn on the pump (which increases the flow coming out of the already running cold tap)
- Get as much water as you want
- Go back outside and turn off the pump (there is probably more water than you need know and it will have overflowed)
- Go back inside and turn the tap off properly
Other than that Limonas is a very quaint little cottage and in the height of summer I am sure it is lovely.//
Exploring Lakonia
Thursday 21st October 2010
I had planned a quiet day sitting around the cottage. However, I changed my mind when we woke to the sound of generator, radio and men working nearby. So I had to come up with a plan “B”. while in the UK I had read about pretty villages with churches and caves, all to the South and East of Neopoli. So off we set, up into the hills via Nomia (where the pizzeria is), Kalives, Lira and Elliniko. From Elliniko we descended to the main road and turned South for Neopoli. From there we headed towards Lachio (passing a Greek funeral procession along the way) and then headed towards Kato Kastania and the cave, just inland from Panagia.
The road was very narrow in places, especially through the village of Kato Kastania where it was only just wide enough for our car to pass between two houses, while it descended a steep gradient and went round a corner! As usual there were plenty of steep sections and tight hairpin bends. We made it to the cave only to find that between Sept and December it is only open at the weekends (and today was Thursday). “Bother!” said Dougal.
Its Thursday today - Bother
Given the road through Kato Kastania I was not keen to go back that way. Fortunately a return route was suggested via Ano Kastania and though I had not seen the running on the way in, D knew where it was. So, we headed back towards Neopoli via Ano Kastania and more hairpin bends, although this time not quite as narrow as the way in.
Denise on the road near Ano Kastania
Before entering Neoploi we passed a fantastic ruin of a castle / church situated on an outcrop of rock overlooking the town.
Leaving Neopoli we headed North on the main road and stopped for lunch just before the town of Archagelos, with fine views over the bay.
We drove down to Archagelos and along the coast to Paralia. We stopped for a stroll along the beach and a brief paddle. The water was very cool, I didn’t think we would be using the masks and snorkels that we had bought with us. We also clambered over the rocks and took a few photos.
The rocks at Paralia
The beach at Paralia
From Paralia we made it round to Plitra via a road that was not on our map (not the first time we had found this, and not an unusual occurrence in Greece apparently). I’m sure that Plitra is heaving with tourists in the height of the season but it was dead today. Its few criss crossing streets, arranged in a typical American grid pattern, were empty of people. Only a couple of tavern owners were seen, hovering expectantly around the entrances to their premises as we walked past.
There is a brand new hotel or apartment complex being built on the peninsula, although it didn’t look like any one was working on it today. At 321m the hill on the peninsula outside Plitra would be something to walk up – just not today. Its always good to have something to come back for, apparently.
The bay at Plitra.
The planned route back was via Finiki and then Velies. We made it into the main square of Finiki, just. Litterally, I was just able to squeeze the car between two walls. One exit from the square was definitely too narrow and too tight a turn for the car. The other exit reminded me of Cyprus, given that the road split in tow, narrowing to dirt track and leaving me looking out over a valley. So, it was back down the way we had come and then towards Molia and the main road back to Monemvasia, this time in daylight rather than the lightning storm of Monday. We stopped at the mini market for supplies and had an al fresco tea on the patio.
Monemvasia
Wednesday 20th October 2010
Monemvasia
More thunder and lightning in the night. Still raining in early morning. Got up around 9am and water still streaming down the river past the cottage. However, after breakfast of bread and cheese, with a cup of coffee, the stream bed had dried up. We drove into Monemvasia, over the causeway and parked on the roadside leading up to the old town (I found it easier to drive all the way to the top, turn round and then find a parking spot when heading back down the road. This means that you may find a parking spot nearer the top and are pointing in the right direction when you come to leave).
We walked up the road and into the old town. What a warren! A maze of narrow passageways and twisting stairways leading to one curch after another. We went down to the Portello and out on to a narrow shelf of a sun trap, just above the breaking waves. Back inside and we went up to the castle walls, hoping to get around and back in but unfortunately when we got tot he top of the wall there was no way down other than the way we had gone up. So we retraced our steps and lost ourselves in the maze of of the lower town again until finally we came out on the main street and stopped for some lunch. The lady running the cafe did an excellent job of getting us inside with the promise of a good view – and what a view there was from the rooftop terrace; across the rest of the town and up to the upper town.
View up to old town from lunch terrace
Lunch consisted of Greek yoghurt with honey, nuts and fruit, a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice and a glass of water. Excellent!
From there it was up the Byzantine equivalent of Walter’s Wiggles (cf Zion NP, USA) that lead to the gatehouse of the upper town.
Up to Agia Sophia, which was locked unfortunately as there appeared to be, from what we could see peering through the gaps in the door, some stunning wall paintings. Onwards and upwards to the citadel and moew stunning views all around the island, but particularly of the coastline and the mountains. The wind turbines on the mountain ridges must generate some power.
Back down throught the ruins of the upper town to the lower town and thus back to the car. Into Gefyra (the modern settlement on the mainland) for a more detailed local map and some postcards. (We found it difficult to find detailed maps of Greece but some are available here with more appearing soon apparently). We headed back to the cottage, stopping for some fuel on the way. Our Tesco credit card was refused for the second time (the hotel machine did not want to accept it when we checked out yesterday), but luckily my Barclay’s Debit card was accepted. On to the mini mapket for food – beer, olives, bread, cheese and loo roll (which must not go down the loo but must be collected in a bin and taken out with the rest of the rubbish).
Back at cottage to write up diary. I had a shower. The “hot” water barely got to air temp, but I managed it OK. D didn’t last very long at all. Wrote a couple of postcards for parents and work before cold pizza for tea.
After tea we walked down to the beach in the moonlight – very romantic. Back at the cottage there was a beasty lurking in the undergrowth – we could both see its eyes reflecting the moonlight – but when I wandered down the bottom of the garden to try to see it there was nothing there – it must have been a piece of glass in the dirt!
Carl Sprake 