Archive
Cyprus 2013
For a map of key points see my Google map.
Wednesday 26th June
Rather than face another day on the beach, twiddling our thumbs and fidgeting as wait for the day to pass and the holiday to be over, we set out on an adventure of our own making. D had read in our 10 year old Lonely Planet guide about the Avgas Gorge. Accessible off a dirt track to the north of Cape Drepano this provided an objective and promised to be reasonably short.
The drive from Neo Chorio to Agios Georgious was straightforward, but from there the road headed north, and soon disintegrated to a dirt track. The turning off toward the gorge was even rougher and I decided that for the final section discretion was the better part of valour and we would walk in rather than risk the car. If we had had a 4×4 then it would have been a different story but I was concerned that the little Colt would struggle with ground clearance, grip and torque. With the road to the start of the gorge hugging the edge of a cliff I preferred to walk.
Rather than risk taking the car down a steep uneven track on the side of a cliff I decided to leave it here.
Entering the gorge itself there were echoes of Zion Canyon as the walls closed in and the carving effect of the water became obvious. In the shaded canyon it was very pretty, with the stream bubbling along and variety of plant and animal life around. Water seeped out the walls and at one point a huge limescale goitre clung to the side of the canyon. As the canyon narrowed I left D and pushed on, alone, aiming for a patch of sunshine that seemed so close.
After scrambling over large boulders and skirting deep pools of rippling water I made it the sunshine. I could have gone on, but already D appeared a long way away and the route ahead was blocked my more rockfall, so reluctantly I made my way back. The gorge is part of the long distance path E4 and it is possible to scramble out of the end.
Beware of falling rocks, caused by goats grazing on the narrow ledges above the gorge.
We retraced our steps to Agios Georgious and went down to the little harbour, where we paddled along the rocky shore and I swam out into the protected bay. Then it was back to Neo Chorio for a quick swim and lounge by the pool long enough for my shoulders to turn quite red.
After a shower it was up into the village, and although we found the other taverna, Smiyies, at the other end of village (keep left past the church and keep going) we went back to Kouppas for dinner and had another very fine meal.
We bought Baklava from the little shop on the way back to the apartment to go with the cans of Leon beer we had in the fridge.
All the photos from today can be found on my Flickr site.
Tuesday 25th June
Waking up this morning my watch told me that at 08:00 the temperature in the bedroom was already 28oC
Today was a day with a difference. Although InnTravel had provided walk notes for four walks in the area we both decided that it was going to be too hot to be headed out for 13km walks, so after a huge breakfast we drove down to the Baths of Aphrodite. The InnTravel guide, in the notes for the Aphrodonis Trail, describe the Baths as “not as grand as their name would suggest – just some gardens, really – its best to not expect much”. While the pool is indeed not very grand, it is very pretty and the surrounding gardens are very impressive with a range of plants that are identified for your information.
The pool at the Baths of Aphrodite
We were just leaving the gardens when a coach load of tourists arrived so we had been quite lucky. From the Baths we descended the steps behind the Baths of Aphrodite Restaurant to the rocky shoreline, before returning to the restaurant for a cool drink.
Me by the sea outside Latchi. (c) Denise Pallett
On the shore
Refreshed we drove into Latchi itself and parked the car by the harbour. Lunch at Y&P, D had swordfish while I had the Fish meze – octopus, squid, sardine, swordfish, prawn and mussel. The best squid ever!
Afternoon spent wandering around the harbour taking arty photos. Headed back to the apartment and dined on olives, cheese, crackers, more beer and a Baklava.
All the photos from today are on my Flickr site.
Monday 24th June
Our final morning at the Semiramis hotel. As Jack said, it truly was Paradise, waking in the early hours to see the sun gradually brighten the room and the outside world. The grey of predawn turning to the brilliant blue of another sun drenched morning.
Apparently this flower only blooms on one day each year. We were lucky that we were there when it did.
After breakfast we finished our packing and sought out Nkki and Jack for our goodbyes. It was like saying good bye to a favourite uncle or grandparent. Many “farewell my friends”, “you are great” and “Britain rules the waves” but eventually we got underway.
Rather than making directly for Neo Chorio, where we would spend the last few days of the holiday, we made for Kelefos Bridge, a medieval or “Venetian” stone arched bridge. Inn Travel had provided notes for a short walk from the bridge, so we were looking forward to a shaded stroll along a babbling brook.
The bridge itself is magnificent and very picturesque with the woods in the back ground and the water flowing gently down the stream to the ford. The walk itself was a disappointment. In place of the shaded path alongside the stream there were forest trails blazed through the trees by huge earthmoving machines. Ugly scars replaced the genteel paths of our imagination. There were very few views and even less shade. Since the route started and finished at the bridge there was also no objective for the walk. This is something I am very keen on. I like my walks to have a purpose, a reason for setting out, whether it is visit a church or to summit a mountain. The reason itself doesn’t matter, as long as there is a point to it all. In this case there wasn’t.
Kelefos bridge
So, after a few more photos of the bridge we were off to Neo Chorio, via lunch at Mylo’s restaurant on the road to Paphos. We negotiated the outskirts of Paphos and headed north again towards Polis. As we descended from the mountains towards the coast the temperature rose steadily until it was touching 34oC as we passed through the tourist trap that is Latchi. Up the hill to Neo Chorio and into the Tavros apartment complex.
We were met by a less than encouraging welcome. When I said that they should have a reservation for us the receptionist responded with “I’m sure we can fit you in”. When I reitarated that we had a reservation the receptionist said “Oh are we in trouble in now”. (“You soon will be”, I thought, “if you don’t find our booking”). Eventually she realised what planet she was on and checked us in. We were shown to the apartment by a shirtless guy who apologised for not having a shirt on. As D pointed out, if he thought he should have a shirt on then perhaps he should have put one on. Personally I wasn’t bothered by it but from a professional perspective may be he should have made more of an effort.
We had a quick swim and lounge by the pool before showering and heading up hill in search of dinner. We only found the one place open, so the Kouppas Stone Castle it was. Apart from a few locals we were the only ones there. As we sat down the table covered with an cigarette burnt table clothe the guy who came over did not inspire confidence. Dishevelled, with rotten teeth and breath stinking of stale cigarettes. I asked if they were doing food and he grunted that they were, so I ordered two Keo. When he returned with the drinks he said there wasn’t a menu but they were doing most things from the grill plus the standard stuff, as he mumbled his way through a list of classic Greek dishes. We said we would think about it and so off he went.
A short while later, a smartly dressed young woman came over – she was the manageress and had been away when we arrived and when the locals helped out! She sounded a bit more professional, although there were still no menus, so we ordered dips and olives to start, while I went for Dolmades for main and D ordered Stifado. When the food arrived it was excellent!
After dinner we purchased some beer, nuts and salami from the co-op supermarket opposite the restaurant. we took the purchases back to the apartment and sat on the balcony watching the sun set.
Sunset in Neo Chorio from our patio
All the photos from today are on my Flickr site.
Sunday 23rd June Omodos
Omodos today for a 13km, including a 1km extension to a Byzantine church on top of a hill. While the walk notes are correct in that this looks like a Byzantine shed from the outside, it is in fact open and there are some stunning wall paintings inside.
A small shrine by the side of a road.
Inside the back of the shrine.
Lots of lizards again today. different views across vineyards, olives and almonds.
How do these young vines, planted in chalk, survive?
Wide variety of strange plants, quite a few of which have spines, or thorns or some other sharp protuberance, or even photosensitive sap that will deliver 3rd degree burns to unprotected skin (the tall yellow flowered umbellifer of wild parsnip).
On the outskirts of Omodos.
Being on holiday, or perhaps just walking, gives me time to think about all manner of things and I inevitably come up with the same goals, which I must act on (although I think I came up with the same idea last year and never got around to it):
- Identify requirements to run MCT VMs
- Get server for home that meets those requirements
- Build server environment, download VMs for SharePoint, Project Server etc
- Use it for CPD
- Make sure it can run photo management software for when I get DSLR.
Saturday 22nd June
Walk 5: Agios Theodorous to Panagia Asinou. 6km there then taking the second option to loop back on a forest track before regaining the outbound route to create a total distance of 12.5km.
Moss and lichen on a rock by the side of the trail through that contours through the woods.
A forest path on the way to Asinou
Alcohol and walking in the hills do not mix. it is never a good idea to drink alcohol when walking. So, when we passed the tavern on the approach to the church we did what any sensible person would do after walking 6.5km in 40 degree heat – we went in and two pints of ice cold beer. The tavern was huge. There must have been space for about 200 people to eat in the restaurant with another 500 sat at tables under a canopy. With video games for the kids it was obviously the sort of place tour operators took guests on “Cypriot” nights out. Shortly after we ordered our second beer a bus arrived and about 20 tourists came in for lunch.
Some of the amazing art work in the church at Asinou
Bubbles on a bench at a view point near the end of the walk, with views over the plains of Northern Cyprus and the sea beyond.
After the walk we again stopped at Troodos Square for cold drinks and pulled into our favourite view point overlooking Akrotiri.
Got back to the hotel to find the car park full, so we had to park on the road outside. This may not sound a big deal, but all week the village had been practically deserted, now there were four cars filling the car park and several more parked along the street, obviously belonging to neighbouring hotels and appartments.
Friday 21st June Agros
Today we headed off to Agros for a shorter 7.5km walk. The start was not promising as it lead through a new estate with building rubbish on one side.
A big thistle.
But soon the path led down a steep and “slithery” path into the pine woods. More stunning scenery and loads of lizards.
On the return leg we visited two barn chapels; Archangelos Michael and then Agios Parskerios. The walk notes report that only the latter has a water tap, but in fact both have. The water from the tap was initially hot but then turned refreshingly cool. The author of the walk notes did not know if the water from these taps was potable or not, so we followed their lead and used the water to cool our heads.
It may have been a shorter walk today, but in 32 degree heat it was still hard work.
The drive back to the hotel went via Troodos Square. So we stocked up on cold drinks and drove on to the look out point with views across to the salt lake at Akrotiri. We got talking to a British couple who asked me if I could take their photo. They then asked for directions to “that place that makes the lace”. They meant Omodos, but didn’t seem to have much of a clue where it was in relation to where they were. Then they said they were thinking about buying a place in Cyprus to spend half the year there. Is it just me, or would you do a bit more research and have a better clue about a potential new home, and perhaps a map. They then asked if we were Craghoppers because of the shirt D was wearing. That’s like me asking if someone’s name is Hugo Boss because that is what it says on their T shirt.
Denise with the manager of the hotel, Jack.
Back to the hotel for coffee and McVities Digestive biscuit. Looks like it is just us in the hotel tonight as the other couple have left. According to Jack they were Israeli and were always arguing with each other. Apparently, before he left, the chap managed to damage the door frame into the dining room.
Full photos are on my Flickr site.
While in Cyprus I am reading “AWOL on the Appalachian Trail” on my Kindle. The book refers to Somerset Maugham’s – The Razor’s Edge. Some random thoughts to come back to :
Why should the sentence that begins “I am a..” have to finish with a job title? Hiking the AT may be considered pointless, but working from one pay packet to the next is just as pointless.
“Hiking the AT now is abnormal (as opposed to after college, after retirement), and therein lay the appeal. I want to make my life less ordinary”.
Thursday 20th June
Today, the Madari ridge walk. Very long (13km), very hot (32deg C) and very hard work. But worth it with some amazing scenery and tremendous views from the ridge. Lots of lizards and stunning views both right and left of the ridge. Excellent views from the Excellent View point (it was marked as “Excellent view point” as opposed to the more normal “View point”), and from the fire watch tower on the summit of the 2nd highest summit in Cyprus.
The Madari ridge, with the fire watch tower visible on the middle peak in the far distance.
The view from the “Excellent viewpoint” on the Madari ridge.
The start of the final slog up to Dios si o Theos – “Thanks to the gods”, the col where we parked the car.
Dinner back at the Pegasus restaurant. Dips and olives followed by a Caesar salad. Cute but cheeky cat, that jumped into our laps and then was reluctant to get down again, digging in her claws.
Wednesday 19th June
The walk today was the 13.5km Atalante trail that for most of its length contours around Mount Olympus (Chionistra locally). The walk notes suggested an estimated time of 4.5 hours. It took us about six hours because of regular stops for photos of the scenery, rocks and flowers. Lots of birds, butterflies and several lizards, including quite a large one.
A young bird that let us get really close as we took photos.
A spring on the Atalante trail. We rushed in to feel the cold water and then remembered that snakes like wells.
Back at the hotel Jack invited us down to the patio for coffee. Since it is impolite to refuse we went down to the patio, but I asked for Keo rather than coffee. He bought us a can each, and then when we had finished those he bought another two cans. However, when I offered to pay he refused, such is Cypriot hospitality.
Tuesday 18th June
I had the most comfortable night’s sleep I have had for a long time. Perhaps I need a hard bed like the one in the hotel room, or maybe a large one so D doesn’t keep forcing me to the edge. Or maybe it was because for some reason my tooth felt a whole lot better this morning. All day yesterday the pain had been getting gradually worse and I had been trying to limit my in take of pain killers so that I had enough to last the holiday. During the flight the tooth was very painful but getting up this morning there was no pain at all. It felt as if something had swollen up inside my jaw and had finally burst overnight. Whatever it was I was pain free, and was to remain so for the remainder of the holiday.
The room is simply furnished, with an enormous double bed, two bedside tables (but only one light – my side fortunately), a cupboard and a dresser. There is a small TV which only seems to receive Cypriot TV (no English channels, although we did find Capital – a channel that showed English language movies). The footboard of the bed is on a level with the mattress, so I can stretch out and have my feet hanging over the end.
Breakfast this morning was bacon, egg, toast, ham, cheese, tomato and watermelon. With DIY Nescafe coffee. Not very inspiring.
The first walk of the holiday started from the hotel. “Walk 1a: Poziari and Kaledonia trails”, was pretty much as described in the excellent notes from InnTravel. The only real difference was that we took about 6.5 hours rather than the suggested 4 hours as we kept stopping to take photos of the stunning scenery and flora.
A rocky scree path on the Kalidonia trail heading towards the pine forest, under a cloudless blue sky.
Bubbles at Kaledonia falls.
We stopped at the Psilo Dendro Trout farm restaurant at the end of the walk for a much needed Keo. I tried out my Cypriot on the waitress only to find out that she was a foreigner and was only just learning the language herself. Luckily the manageress head me, understood me and then replied in Cypriot – which I of course did not understand, but eventually she was able to explain that epta eburo paraklo meant “7 euro please”.
For dinner we went to the Pegasus restaurant, owned and managed by one of Jack’s daughters. I had a wonderful sausage to start with and Stifado for main, while D started with olives and had a lamb dish for main. I rounded it all off with Cypriot coffee and zinfandia (fire water).
All the photos can be seen on my Flickr site.
Carl Sprake 