Lake District Holiday – June 2011

Writing this on the train in to London the last week already seems so long ago (and updating it almost a month later it seems ages ago). This time last Monday I was just waking up in our tent at Great Langdale camp site in the Lake District, and thinking about the forthcoming two day expedition to Scafell Pike.

We had travelled up to Great Langdale on Saturday. Arriving in the valley at about 3pm we found the campsite between the two Dungeon Ghyll hotels, hidden within a copse of trees. So well hidden is the campsite that it is virtually invisible from the road and remains well hidden even when up on the fells. We checked in arict reception, were given our pitch number and shown where to park the car. We set up our tent, avoiding the newly dug rabbit hole, and started to move our stuff into our home for the next week. Once we were all set up we walked down the road to the Old Dungeon Ghyll hotel and sat under the brolley on the porch of the climber’s bar, sheltering from the rain – not the sun, while we ate cumberland sausage (what else) and chips.

Sunday – Pike O Blisco

Sunday morning dawned grey and overcast, with low cloud that swirled gently around the fellsides. We had planned for a gentle walk today to break us in gradually. So, once we had had breakfast and got our gear together, we headed out. From the campsite we took the valley road to the Old Dungeon Ghyll hotel and then the tarmac track to Stool End Farm. There were puddles on the track, evidence of recent precipitation, and the cloud hung low in the valley, menacing and yet enchanting as it rolled gently along the valley sides. Once through the farm yard and the gate on the far side we followed the path up Oxendale Beck to the first footbridge. Crossing the footbridge we began the steep climb up the valley side, to emerge into a side valley at Brown Howe. As we climbed up the valley side, so the cloud seemed to lift gently so that we could see all of this side valley in its full glory; a steep sided ravine, flowing down from Red Tarn.

We followed the edge of this valley up to the col between Pike O Blisco and the path up to Wrynose Fell, and then alongside Red Tarn to the far end, where we hoped to double back on ourselves and follow the publi right of way shown on the map, to the summit of Pike O Blisco. As is so often the way in the hills the path shown on the map was not on the ground and we had a very interesting scramble up a steep grassy slope, before we found the cairned path up to the summit. Along the way Denise disturbed a frog in the grass (?colour?).

Once on the cairned path it was easy to reach the mist covered summit. The only decision to me made was how to get down. Having lost all sense of direction a quick check of the map and compass was required to determine the direction of the path that would lead, eventually, to the Wrynose Pass. As we set off a fellow walker appeared to be headed in the same direction – heading away from the summit across the rocky slopes. The map appeared to show the path crossing the rocky northern face of the Pike, before levelling out for a short while and then descending down a valley to the road. The path across the rocks was easy to follow, the broken pebbles and shiny surfaces of rock polished by previous walkers showing the way. However, care was needed as we stepped down and around some outcrops. On a couple of occasions we down climbed some fairly tricky sections that required a great deal of care. All the time we were surrounded by mist and had very limited visibility, only 30 – 40 meters.

At last we emerged from the bottom of the cloud, just as the ground levelled out and we relaxed for a bit as strolled across the relatively flat ground. The path into the valley was obvious and easy to follow, although the path was very steep in places and care was needed on the wet sloping steps. The path ran alongside a ghyll, with bracken on either side, crossing the ghyll to emerge on the road. We followed the road for a short distance before heading back down hill and following the zig zags down the hillside into the campsite, passing a fallen tree with some very artistic looking root structure.

It may have been intended as a gentle first day, but it still took us over five hours to complete and had included some interesting moves on the rocky descent as well as some careful navigation in the mist.

Dinner on Sunday night saw the first of several trips to the Stickle Barn Tavern and the first of quite a few pints of local ale to be consumed over the week.

Monday / Tuesday – Scafell Pike

Following my Mountain Leader training in April I am trying to rack up as many Quality Mountain Days as possible. Some of these need to include wild camps. Despite several trips to the Lake District over the years, D had not managed to summit Scafell Pike. So we intended to address all these points with a two day expedition from Great Langdale to Scafell Pike and back via a wild camp.

As on the previous day we started out from the campsite by heading along the valley road to Stool End farm. However, rather than following Oxendale Beck we headed up The Band, a steady but fairly easy rise in height that took us to Three Tarns, at the foot of Bowfell and Crinkle Crags. Coming up from the valley the weather had been fine and clear, however as we reached the col the cloud started rolling in and soon obscured the summit. Despite the incoming cloud it was very easy to follow the well marked and cairned track from Three Tarns, up the scree slope, to the rocky summit of Bowfell. From the summit of Bowfell the path leading to Ore Gap and thus on to Esk Pike is clearly visible, although as Wainwright points out in Book Four of his guide to the Lakeland Fells “the way thereto across Bowfell’s stony top is less clearly marked”. As we were standing on the summit of Bowfell the cloud and mist rolled in with more enthusiasm than it had been doing and soon visibility was very poor. To the point that before we started to descend from the summit I had confirmed our required direction on the map and used the compass to point us in the right direction. Using timings or pacings to judge distance across the boulder strewn summit was out of the question but dead reckoning suggested that we had moved about 200m from the summit by the time we reached the edge of the boulders and we soon picked up the cairned path that led towards Ore Gap. The gap is well named as the final section of the steep path from Bowfell is a fantastic red indicating a high amount of haematite (iron ore).

From Ore Gap a short ascent took us to the summit of Esk Pike where again the views were hidden behind curtains of cloud, so we did not hesitate there long before descending again past some amazing rock formations to emerge at Esk Hause. However, at the time it was impossible to tell where we were as the mist had thickened considerably and was blowing in from our left at a fair old rate.

Another check of the map showed that the foot of Greet End should be approximate 350 meters in front of us and if followed the correct path then we should be heading in a specific direction. After 400 meters along the path from Esk Hause there was still no sign through the mist of the expected lower slopes of Great End. However, we were heading in the correct direction on the correct slope, so we pushed on. We passed through Calf Cove and over a small stream as is gurgled its way down the mountainside.

From here we started to ascend again as we headed up Ill Crag across a boulder field to reach the summit plateau of Ill Crag. The summit cairn was just visible through the mist about 200m straight on, but the cairned and worn track was leading us off to the right and the short downhill section that took us to the foot of Broad Crag. As we ascended Broad Crag we encountered another boulder field, worse than that on Ill Crag and according to Wainwright the most difficult summit in all Lakeland! Fortunately for us we could just make out the next cairn through the mist and were able to negotiate our way across the boulder field and skirting around the rocks that make up the actual summit of Broad Crag. Its generally wise to do some research before setting out on any sort of mountain adventure, and its not as if we are short on resources. As well as having internet access at home and at work we have all the Wainwright guides and a couple of years worth of Trail and Country Walking magazines. However, probably due to pressures at work and life in general we had not done as much preparation for this week as we might have done. If we had even read Wainwright’s views on Scafell Pike we would have learned that Ill Crag and Broad Crag are not considered tops in their own right, “merely”| being the lower two of the three pikes that make up Scafell Pike(s). We would also have read that “Broad Crag… is the roughest summit in Lakeland”.

On the far side of Broad Crag an obvious and fairly straightforward, if quite steep, path led down to a col. Standing at the edge of Broad Crag the South East nose of Scafell Pike appeared out of the mist, the details obscure but showing enough clues to hint at steep scree slopes either side of a central rocky nose that seemed to offer an easy scramble up to unknown heights.

We made it down to the col and after some discussion as to the best approach I started up the center of the ridge, scrambling easily up the rocks. All too soon the rocky scramble gave way to a short section of scree and then we were on the rock strewn slopes of the summit itself and within mere minutes we were at the top of the highest mountain in England and above the clouds that had enveloped us for the last few hours. Unfortunately the surrounding tops were not quite so lucky and remained shrouded in mist, only a couple (possibly Esk Pike and Bowfell) peeked their tops above the cloud. However, we were not disappointed as even the clouds offered a stunning view.

The question now was how to proceed from here. We had only encountered the one water source, at Calf Cove, and were not sure what water would be available if we took another route (perhaps the corridor route to Styhead) back towards Langdale. So we took the safe option and retraced our steps as far as Calf Cove. On the return trip the boulder fields on Broad Crag and Ill Crag, although still requiring some care, did not present the same obstacle as they had on the way up. Descending towards the stream at Calf Cove we started to look for somewhere to camp for the night. However, we decided to fill our water bladders and push on a little bit towards Esk Hause, with a thought to heading away from the path to some flat looking ground on the promontory to our right, about 600m from the path. Luckily we did not have to go that far, as by this time the cloud has rolled in again and even 50m from the path it was no longer visible. We settled on some fairly level ground (as level as tussocky ground can get) and pitched our tent. The new Terra Nova Superlite Quaser was up in moments and we were soon inside.

After getting ourselves sorted inside it was time to get some food on, so out came another new toy – the Jetboil Flash. Up until now I had used dehydrated food and boiled water in a kettle. However, after some poor experiences with stuff that tasted more like wallpaper paste and a great experience on ML with boil in the bag food (from “Look what we found”) I had decided that it it worth carrying the extra weight for the better culinary experience. The Jetboil had a cup of water boiling in less than a minute and 7 minutes later Denise had her hot dinner ready. Another 8 minutes later mine was done. and they were both absolutely fantastic, hot, yummy and not at all like wallpaper paste. Another 2 minutes and we both had a cup of coffee to go with the chocolate for dessert. Despite it only being about 8pm we were soon dozing in our sleeping bags, listening to the rain fall against the tent. Luckily it didn’t last long and we fell asleep as the mist wrapped itself around our tent and the sheep munched the grass (apparently right outside the door).

I had to get up in the middle of the night to have a pee, and as I stood there in just my boots I could see that the clouds had gone and the sky was clear, which was great but it also meant that the temperature droppped quite a bit so that it was too cold in the tent not to snuggle into the sleeping bag, but snuggling down meant I was soon warm and clammy (nice!). We were woken by the morning light shining through our tent and emerged to a gloriously clear, if chilly morning. After breakfast of cereal and coffee we packed everything up and were ready to set off.

From Calf Cove we followed the path around the foot of Great End (now hugely obvious) to Esk Hause, the many paths meeting there now equally obvious unlike the day before. We descended towards Allen Crag and then headed down hill again towards Angle Tarn. We weren’t the only ones around at such an early hour. One couple had obviously made a very early start from somewhere as they had only day packs with them. However, as we approached Angle Tarn we passed another couple of wild campers heading in the opposite direction and two tents could be seen next to the Tarn itself.

Reaching the tarn we headed away from the main path and followed the trail across the slopes of Rossett Pike to Stake Pass, crossing a very boggy section before reaching the main Cumbria Way path, which we descended through Langdale Combe (a classic hanging valley) and then down a series of zig zags into the main Langdale Valley.

We came off the path at the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel and followed the road back to the campsite.

Wednesday – Ambleside

After the exertions of the previous two days and with the weather forecast for today suggesting thunder storms we decided on a day of rest and headed into Ambleside for a look round the gear shops. As it happened it was a glorious day, with no sign of the threatened storms. The only problem with going to gear shops is that I tend to buy gear, and so I am now the proud owner of some cool looking Bolle shades.
Back at the campsite I had a go at herding the many rabbits before we cooked dinner in the tent and had a relaxing evening.

Thursday – Stickle Ghyll and Pavey Ark

Some time ago I purchased three scrambling guides, from Cicerone Press, one for Snowdonia and two for the Lake District. although I had flicked through them at home I had not actually tried out any of the routes described. So we had decided that one of the days this week we would spend scrambling, probably on some of the many routes described above the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel. So today we had our eyes on a scramble up Stickle Ghyll with the possibility of ascending Pavey Ark via Jack’s Rake.

Unlike on Sunday and Monday, when we had turned left out of the campsite, this morning we turned right and headed down the road. We went in to the National Trust and out the small gate onto the fells, where the main path to Stickle Tarn follows the left bank (looking up the slope) of Stickle Ghyll. Given the total length of the ghyll it is perhaps surprising that the guide book only takes two paragraphs to describe the whole ascent.

I’m not going to attempt a step by step account either. Essentially we followed the stream making the scrambling as hard or easy as we wanted. If there looked like being some interesting moves on the rocks then we went up the middle of the stream and over the rocks, or clung to the edge of the stream as we skirted a few inches above the water. However, if it all looked a bit hairy then we retreated to the easier ground on the left or right banks. Most of the ascent can be achieved through some easy scrambling.

There was only one really tricky section on the scramble up the Ghyll. A steep rock step about 25-30′ tall, there looked to be an obvious route up a dry section to the left of the waterfall. However, two thirds of the way up I couldn’t find a decent hand hold and had to start to explore the rock to the right. I found a reasonably decent hand hold, but now water was pouring over my legs and my feet were less than secure. More by luck and strength than skill and judgement I managed to pull myself up the final section and made it to the top of the falls. I think I found the limit of my climbing skill there.

Without any more major dramas we made it the top of the Ghyll and Stickle Tarn, behind which loomed the wall of Pavey Ark.

Running diagonally across the face of Pavey Ark, from bottom right to top left is Jack’s Rake, a grade 1 scramble that runs up a gulley for most of the length. On the whole it is reasonably easy going apart from a couple of quite tricky sections. The first is where a rock fall has blocked the gulley with a huge chunk of rock. It is possible, with a bit of work, to get around the rock on the right hand side. Alternatively, it is possible to climb out of the gulley (which is easy) and get around the rock on the left hand side. This is very straightforward, although there is significant exposure to the left.

About two thirds of the way up the gulley it narrows significantly and the whole thing angles to the left just as one is faced with big step. Although we could reach forward and find some hand holds we couldn’t find any decent foot holds. The only way to proceed was therefore to wedge ourselves between the two walls of the gulley and inch our way forwards, even though this meant that for a few moments we were leaning backwards over the gulley that we had just climbed.

Eventually though the gulley ends and you are faced with a steep wall of rock about 12-15′ tall. It is obvious that some people have gone up this and there are a few potential hand holds but it still looks quite a challenge. However, our guidebook suggests that “it is easiest to continue with a slight descent before the track climbs again to finish up slabs into a shallow depression with a large cairn on the top. This is just to the right of a prominent rock tower.” What the guidebook fails to mention is that in order to move from the track to the slabs there is a bit of a vertical climb followed by a move where you have to pull yourself out of the comfort of a chimney like enclosure on to the slab, a move that puts you at the bottom of the slab, very close to a huge amount of exposure. Lets just sayI hugged the rock very close until I was sure of my hand and foot purchase on the slab, from where it was an easy scramble up to the rocky summit.

Friday – Crinkle Crags

How could we visit Langdale without doing Crinkle Crags? So, on our final full day in the valley we set off to do what Wainwright describes as one of the finest ridge miles in all of Lakeland. For some reason I had got it in to my head that most people tend to tackle the ridge in a clockwise direction, that is ascending via Brown Howe, often summiting Pike O Blisco before heading across the ridge of Crinkle Crags and then descending via Three Tarn – normally down the Band. However, since we had already gone up Oxendale Beck to Red Tarn on Sunday for our easy introductory ascent of Pike of Blisco we were loathe to ascend that way again. That meant doing the Crags in an anti-clockwise direction. We do like to do things differently from the norm! Since we had gone up The Band at the beginning of our two day expedition on Monday we were ideally looking for another route up to Three Tarns. The path up Hell Gill immediately presented itself and so we settled on that route.

From Stool End farm we followed the North bank of Oxendale Beck but did not cross the footbridge as we had done on Sunday but stayed on the North side to follow the beck further up the valley. The early stages are very pleasant indeed, with great views of the surrounding mountains and the ever changing nature of the stream to keep us interested. The path crosses the stream a couple of times, first via some fairly straight forward stepping stones (although the penultimate one is rather large, sloping and somewhat intimidating) and then via a slight scramble up the side of a tributary. Once the head of the valley is reached the path climbs up to Three Tarns via a very steep stony path that gradually gives way to a grass covered slope. Wainwright describes this route as ” a pleasant change” for walkers who have already trodden The Band several times. While it is indeed a change, pleasant is perhaps not quite the word I would use for the long slog that is required to make it up to Three Tarns.

In bad weather, with poor visibility, the ridge of Crinkle Crags is probably an intimidating place as it could easily become a maze of boulder strewn ridges and depressions. However, on a fine day it is easy to follow the ridge, with plenty of opportunities to explore each crag as much or as little as one likes. There are a few cairns along the way but generally the path is easy to follow. The only obstacle to be aware of along the way is the Bad Step, on the south side of the fourth crinkle. If one was walking the ridge from South to North (clockwise) then this would be an easy scramble or easily avoided by using either of the two routes that are obvious from the fifth crinkle. However, walking from NOrth to South the path from the summit of the fourth crinkle the path leads, via some scree, directly to the Bad Step. Descent is possible with great care. Looking down the step, which is about ten feet high, I could see that there are some obvious footholds, if only I could get to them. By lying on the slab at the top of the step I was able to lower one foot to the first foot hold then had to trust to luck as I let myself slip backwards until my other foot found the next foothold – I know, not the best climbing technique in the world. When Denise descended I had to give lots of physical as well as verbal support to ensure that she found the required footholds and had the confidence to keep going.

As we ascended the fifth crinkle we could see that it is possible to avoid the bad step via a grassy slope to the west or some stony terraces to the east of the summit. All along the ridge, but particularly as we approached the southern end of the ridge, we had some fantastic views of the Duddon and Esk valley and the sea.