Metamorfosi, Richea and Gerakas

Sunday 24^th October 2010

8.30am (on a Sunday!) woke, with a headache already, to the chugging of some sort of motor / pump as guys continue to work nearby. Fairly cloudy as well, although the sun is breaking through as I write this. So, I suggested a drive up to Richea and the surrounding area. Even though its more driving on top of yesterday it is a chance to escape the throbbing nouise of that blasted generator. Then D announces she will wash her hair before we go out so I have to sit and listen to the chugging of the generator. Actually it isn’t so bad, the sounds of the waves are just as loud and it looks like the sun might be slowly winning its fight against the clouds.

About 20km outside of Monemvasia, just beyond Sikea, we took a side road to Metamorfosi. The sign was hidden behind a tree and I nearly didn’t see it at all. As it was I had fone past before I had translated the greek and had to turn around. It shouldn’t have mattered as the map shows three side roads leading to the village; one just outside of Sikea, one at Molai and one halfway in between. The road we took led us, eventually to a the village square, where there is a very impressive looking church. The square was almost full of cars and, being a Sunday I didn’t think the locals would appreciate a couple otourists looking around the church during a service, so we didn’t stop. Instead, we followed Sat Nav and, unusually for Greece, some signpost, on to the road towards Richea.

The road climbed out of the valley, on to which the sun was shining through the occasional break in the clouds, and up the side of the mountain in the, now to be expected, series of sharp inclines hairpin bends. As we drew closer to the wind turbines on the ridge and rose above the quarry works the cloud descended and we were driving though mist as we crossed the highest point.

Descending the other side we were heading toward Richea when we saw a sign for an ancient monument (the Palace of Charakis or something similar). After following the side road for several kilometres we still had not seen any further signs so on reaching a village (possibly Achladokambos) we turned around. (Having just looked at Google maps while writing this up I think we must have just missed the turning since there is a place named Zarakas just off the road near the village.)

Heading back to the original road we soon passed through Richea. This is a pleasant looking village with a couple of taveransa where men were drinking coffee or having an early lunch. The road continued on down, through Agios Ionnis and Lerax / Gerakas. About 2km after Gerakas is a left turn to Gerakis Port (or Limani Geraka – Λιμάνι
Γέρακα)

This little settlement hugs the shoreline of one side of a natural inlet, naturally sheltered from the sea. There are a number of tavernas and a couple of restaurants, which seemed popular with local and winter residents. About 500m from the start of the village there is a car park on the right hand side, next to the water. Opposite this a track leads up the hill and a signpost indicates an ancient monument – the Acropolis of Zarax.

We parked the car and walked up the track. There are a number of private houses on the right hand side and on reaching the top another couple of private residences ahead and to the left. Between two of these properties, slightly to the left, it appeared as is some drainage / irrigation work was underway as there was a trench dug and a couple of pipes laid out. Well worn, and almost unnoticeable, was a sign to the Kastro or Castle (ΚΑΣΤΡΟ), pointing up the trench – which was obviously a path or track at some point.

Picking our way up the side of the trench we came to a well work footpath between two stone walls, which we followed to the corner of another dry stone wall that had an arrow painted on it. Following the arrow we continued up the obvious path – aided by splashes of paint that had been dabbed on stones and walls to mark the way.

The path is obvious, with the occasional way marker in the form of paint spots:

Soon the stone works of the acropolis were obvious. Atop the highest point and extending out to the cover the approach to the harbour it must have been a significant fortification in its time.

After exploring the churches, stone walls and underground chambers we made our way back down the hill to the car.

Leaving Gerakis Port we rejoined the main road toward Monemvasia, passing through the tiny hamlet of Ariana and past the circular tower on the promontory before descending to the sandy beach at Palea Monemvasia. One of the advantages of coming to Greece in October is that even on a sunny Sunday afternoon this sandy beach was deserted apart from us and a lone fisherman.

We paddled in the sea for a while, our feet and legs soon getting used to the cool water and then perched on separate rocks and contemplated the waves. As D wandered off to look for rock pools and find a fish, a shrimp and several wave polished stones I sat and watched the waves and let my mind wander around the three main topics – work, walking and sex.

Work I’m not going to go in to details here for various reasons. Sex I’m not going to go into either. Walking, well where to start – that really is the question. Looking at these mountains over the past few days has made me want to explore them in more detail on foot, especially given that event the ones around here rise to more than 1100m which is higher than Ben Nevis, while the summits of the Taygetos reach 2407m. But there are so many hills and mountains to explore in the UK. How best to explore them let alone the ones in Greece? How about a target list that can give me something to aim for, as well as help get me fit:

• All the Wainwrights (214)
• The Welsh 3000 – I think I’ve done a fair few of them already
• The highest point in each county
• The highest mountain in each European country

That should keep me going for a while. Now all I need is someone to pay me / sponsor me to do all of that and I’ll be laughing, as well as raising money and awareness for Diabetes UK.

Anyhow, daydreaming completed it was time to head back to the cottage, with the usual stop at the mini market for supplies.

We decided to eat in tonight on garlic sausage, tsatziki, cheese, crackers, olives and biscuits. While sitting down before tea we were joined by a male tabby cat and shortly afterwards by a white / tabby female. We enticed them to stay using a fair amount of the garlic sausage and they hung around while we had tea. Once we moved inside the cottage I hoped that the cats would do something about the rats in the roof, although after all that garlic sausage they probably didn’t want anything else to eat.