Gythio, the Mani and Kelefa Castle

Wednesday 27^th October 2010

After the relaxing day in the sunshine yesterday, today was due to be another road trip. During our planning session last night we had decided against the Langda Pass, as it would have meant a round trip of over 300km and more than 7.5 hours of driving, and that did not include time for photo stops or exploration.

So we decided to head off to Gytheio and the area west, including if we could find it, Kelefa Castle.

The trip to Gytheio was uneventful, although there was more traffic around than normal. The guidebooks describe Gytheio as an attractive fishing town. While the sea front houses were attractive enough the rest of the town was a pig sty. I can only assume that the refuse collectors were on strike as there were piles of garbage everywhere and the place stank to high heaven. We did not, therefore, hang around very long. Just long enough to drive along the jetty / sea wall to a small island where the folklore museum is situated. Unusually, when compared to other attractions we had come across, this had a sign post proclaiming that it was open every day. Although it was a fairly attractive building we did not go inside, merely took a few photos before crossing back to the mainland and rejoining the main road, continuing to head west, following directions from Sat Nav for the small village of Itilo (Οιτνλο), about 11km north of Areopoli. Kelefa castle was well signposted from the road and we followed the narrow, but tarmac road, to the castle, parking in a small lay-by right next to the castle.

The 17^th century castle is very much in ruins today with a lot of the outer walls damaged, demolished or robbed away. There are still a lot of stone walls inside the castle although only the church and part of central tower remain standing. It is almost impossible to get any idea about the layout inside the castle as it is very overgrown with olive trees and other low scrubby bushes, including the prickly Kermes oaks.

The interior of Kelefa castle showing the low stone walls and invading greenery, along with the demolished walls (background right) and the remains of the central tower).

After exploring the castle we returned to the car and D spotted two dung beetles, hard at work doing what dung beetles do best. As we sat on the edge of the boot of the car having lunch there were tremendous peels of thunder from the nearby mountains, where dark storm clouds were gathering. We retreated into the car to finish lunch and as we turned for home the heavens opened and it began to pour with rain.

Back at the cottage and it is still raining, although it appears to be easing off but the thunder continues to be very loud and the peels very long, lasting several seconds. I’m sure the ancients would have decided that the gods were very unhappy about something and perhaps another maiden should be sacrificed or young boy flogged. There has just been a bright flash of lightning, so I was obviously right. Now, where to find a maiden….

The storm clouds gather over the mountains to the south of Kelefa castle.